A Guide to Rome's Trastevere District: the City's Boho Soul

Imagine strolling down cobblestone alleys lit by the ambient glow of streetlamps. The faint strains of a violin drift from a nearby piazza, mingling with the laughter of locals gathered at an outdoor café. The smell of freshly baked pizza wafts tantalisingly through the air past crumbling ivy-clad buildings. You’ve just stepped into Trastevere, the bohemian heart of Rome.

This enchanting district, tucked away on the western bank of the Tiber River, feels like a world apart from the famous landmarks of the Eternal City. While visitors flock to the Pantheon and Colosseum, Trastevere remains a living, working neighbourhood where everyday life is deeply rooted in tradition. But don't let its humble charm fool you: every corner reveals hidden treasures, from incredible artworks to ornate palaces. The best way to uncover its secrets? Slow the pace, explore the backstreets and immerse yourself in its soul.

Trastevere is one of Rome's oldest districts, dating back to ancient times. Its name means "beyond the Tiber", referring to its location across the river, outside the original city walls. Thanks to its proximity to international trade routes, it developed as a home for sailors, fishermen and working-class immigrants, creating a vibrant, multicultural character that still exists today.

During Imperial times, Trastevere evolved from a rural outpost to a bustling urban district and important cultural hub. Wealthy Romans, including Julius Caesar and the poet Catullus, built lavish homes in the area. The Middle Ages saw the area develop a strong religious presence, with narrow streets leading to medieval churches and monasteries. By the Renaissance and Baroque periods, Trastevere saw the construction of grand palazzi by noble Roman families, with ornate facades, serene courtyard gardens and grand halls filled with masterpieces. 

While other districts of Rome have become more tourist-centric, Trastevere retains a strong sense of local identity. Many of the businesses – like family-run trattorias, independent boutiques and artisan workshops – have been passed down through generations, creating an authentic connection to its past.

Arguably, the best way to experience Rome's Trastevere district is without a strict plan. However, there are some notable historic sights and monuments that you won't want to miss. Starting at Ponte Sixto V, make your way to Piazza Santa Maria for the stunning basilica, then visit Villa Farnesina for Renaissance art. Along the way, meander through alleyways, discover hidden courtyards and climb Gianicolo Hill for breathtaking views of Rome.

This pedestrian bridge connects Trastevere with the Campo de' Fiori and is one of the first sights you'll see as you approach from central Rome. It was commissioned in 1484 by Pope Sixtus IV (whose other notable commissions include the Sistine Chapel) and designed by architect Baccio Pontelli. The bridge is supported by four arches and has an unusual feature – the central oculus, which allows water to flow freely through as water levels rise.

This ornate basilica is one of the oldest and most remarkable churches in Rome, dating back to AD340. It's famous for its central nave, lined with columns, and its golden coffered ceiling, which glimmers opulently in the dim light. Behind the main altar is a huge 12th-century mosaic, which is so intricate and detailed that it could be mistaken for a fresco. Outside, Piazza di Santa Maria is always buzzing with life – perfect for people-watching after exploring the basilica. 

• Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere - 00153 Roma
• Open 7:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri; 7:30am-8pm Sat & Sun
• Free entry

Built in the early 1500s for a banker named Agostino Chigi, the villa was designed to show off his wealth and love of beauty when he entertained royals, politicians and intellectuals of the day. The villa may look modest from the outside but inside you'll find a treasure trove of Renaissance art to rival anywhere in Rome, including Raphael's Cupid and Psyche fresco and an illusory panorama of 16th-century Rome by Peruzzi.

• Via della Lungara, 230 - 00165 Roma 
• Open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun
• Tickets cost adult/child €15/€7; under 10s free

This stunning Baroque palace was built in the 1700s for the Corsini family, one of the most influential aristocratic families of the time. The extravagant architecture alone is worth the visit, with grand staircases, elegant rooms and intricate frescoes that make you feel like you've stepped into a different era. Don't miss the Galleria Corsini with works by Caravaggio, Raphael and Rubens, or the tranquil courtyard and gardens, which are the perfect place to unwind.  

• Via della Lungara, 10 - 00165 Roma
• Open  10am-7pm Tue-Sun
• Tickets €15, under 18s free

A bit of a climb but worth the effort, Janiculum Hill offers spectacular views over Trastevere district and Rome beyond. At the foot of the hill is the monumental Fontana dell'Acqua Paolo, an impressive feat of 17th-century engineering, built to celebrate the reopening of an ancient Roman aqueduct. Once you reach the top, you'll find the Garibaldi Monument, an equestrian statue dedicated to the Italian general who repelled French troops in 1849. A cannon is fired here at noon every day. 

• Did you know? The Fontana dell'Acqua Paola featured in the opening scene of Paolo Sorrentino's Oscar-winning film, La Grande Bellezza in 2013. 

Tucked away in Trastevere's quiet backstreets, you'll find secret gardens, artisan workshops and fascinating museums that will immerse you more deeply in authentic Roman culture. 

If you’re seeking a retreat from Trastevere's lively energy, the botanical gardens are a peaceful place to relax and breathe in the fresh air. The 12-ha gardens were begun by Pope Leo X in 1514 to study the medicinal value of plants. Today, they feature over 7,000 plant species from across the world, including cork oaks, HImalayan cedars and camellias, not to mention a Japanese garden with fountains, a bamboo grove and specialist orchid houses. 

• Largo Cristina di Svezia, 23 A - 24, 00165 Roma
• 9am-5:30pm daily
• Tickets cost adult/child €5/€4

This small but incredibly atmospheric pharmacy museum is tucked away in a beautiful setting, inside the Palazzo dei Conti di Cenci and is an ideal place to escape the crowds for anyone interested in medicine. With its frescoed walls and wooden shelves, it feels like stepping into an old apothecary's shop, with displays of vintage pharmaceutical tools, 16th-century jars and medicinal remedies dating back through the centuries. 

• Piazza della Scala, 23 - 00153 Roma
• 8:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat
• Tickets cost adult/child €7.40/€6.50

Housed in the beautiful former monastery of Sant'Egidio, this museum focuses on the evolution of Rome and how the district of Trastevere has changed over the centuries. The collection showcases everyday life and culture, with exhibits including everything from old maps and paintings to historical photographs. It's a small but charming place offering a glimpse into the city’s rich heritage and soul, often overlooked by tourists.

• Piazza Sant'Egidio, 1/b - 00153 Roma
• 10am-8pm Tue-Sun
• Tickets cost adult/child €12/€7.50

Named after Carlo Alberto Salustri – Italy's answer to Ernest Hemingway – the square features a statue of the infamous poet leaning drunkenly on a wall. Born into poverty, Salustri became a beloved figure in the early 20th century for his anti-establishment poems, written in the local Romano dialect. Known by his pen name Trilussa, he personifies the bohemian and artistic spirit of Trastevere, and the piazza remains a popular area for poetry, singing and drinking. 

With its array of artisan shops, art galleries and bustling markets, Trastevere district offers some of the best shopping in Rome. It's the perfect place for picking up handmade, one-of-a-kind items that reflect the district's creative spirit. The labyrinth of streets between Via Garibaldi and Viale Trastevere are lined with stores selling gifts, shoes and clothes, such as 18 MQ Vintage Store, which sells quality pre-loved items.

The Porta Portese Flea Market is held every Sunday until 2pm around the streets of Via Portuense and Via Ippolito Nievo, selling everything from books and antiques to vintage clothing and quirky treasures. Or head to the fresh food market in Piazza di San Cosimato, which has been running since AD 900. Many of the stall holders are descendants of the first vendors. 

With its cosmopolitan mix of cultures and strong Roman identity, Trastevere’s culinary scene is legendary. The neighbourhood is packed with family-run trattorias and eateries that have been serving classic recipes for generations.

For traditional Italian delicacies, head to this cosy, family-run trattoria that's famous for its carbonara, cacio e pepe, and carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style fried artichokes). Expect a queue as locals and visitors flock to taste their authentic, perfectly executed recipes.

• Via dei Vascellari, 29 - 00153 Roma
• Open 12pm-3pm, 6:30pm-10:30pm Tue-Sat

If you're looking for something more contemporary, this authentic restaurant is redefining pizza with creative toppings and a dough perfected to balance crunch and softness. Its innovative approach has earned it a loyal following. 

• Via Angelo Bargoni, 10 - 18, 00153 Roma
• Open 7pm-12am daily

No meal in Trastevere would be complete without gelato. Fatamorgana Gelato stands out for its inventive flavours, such as pear and gorgonzola or basil and walnut. Enjoy your cone as you meander through the vibrant streets, soaking up the local atmosphere.

• Via Roma Libera, 11 - 00153 Roma 
• Open 12:30-10:30pm daily

As the sun sets, Trastevere transforms, its lively streets filling with locals and visitors looking to enjoy the neighbourhood’s vibrant nightlife. One of the trendiest spots is Freni e Frizioni, a bar housed in a former mechanic’s workshop. Known for its innovative cocktails and lively outdoor terrace, it’s the perfect place for aperitivo – the Italian tradition of pre-dinner drinks served with light snacks. For something more low-key, we recommend Bar San Calisto, a no-frills local favourite. Its cheap drinks and relaxed vibe attract a mix of students, artists and long-time residents. Wine-lovers should head to Latteria Trastevere for its wide selection and cosy, intimate setting – ideal for relaxing after a long day of exploring.

Trastevere district is within walking distance of Rome's city centre (it takes about 40 minutes), where Mercure Rome Colosseum Centre and Mercure Roma Centro Termini make ideal bases for exploring. If you don't fancy walking, hop on tram 8 from Largo di Torre Argentina, which runs along Viale di Trastevere to Villa Doria Pamphilj, or take tram 3 to the southern end of Viale Trastevere. From Termini, bus H runs to Viale di Trastevere, while the 780 runs to Piazza Venezia.

It's hard to put your finger on why Rome's Trastevere district is so special. It's a combination of experiences – including history, food, art and people – that blend to become more than the sum of their parts. As author Anthony Doerr once said, “Rome is like a book: you can’t finish it in one day, or in one lifetime.” If Rome is a book, then Trastevere is surely one of its most compelling chapters.