Nice Countryside: 8 Top Things to See and Do

Nice curls around the glittering Baie des Anges, a city of pebble beaches, sublime baroque architecture in the Vieille Ville and fragrant Cours Saleya markets bursting with local produce – but venture into Nice countryside and you’ll find a very different France… A sun-drenched land of olive groves and hiking trails winding through the dramatic alpine scenery of the Alpes-Maritimes, of entrancing medieval villages perched daintily on clifftops and neatly planted vines swathing rolling hills. Here’s how to peek beyond the glitz and glamour of the French Riviera and experience local life in the hinterlands of rural Provence. 

If you’re staying in central Nice hotels, you can easily visit the most ravishing villages in the Provence-Alps-Riviera region on a day trip into Nice countryside.

Medieval Èze is a stunner. The best way to experience this mesmerising tangle of steep cobbled alleys? Ditch the map and get lost – you’ll stumble upon artisan shops selling Niçoise olive oils, art galleries showcasing regional artists and cute cafés tucked behind ancient stone façades. For insanely beautiful views over Nice countryside to the sparkling Med, climb up to the Jardin Exotique – a magical hilltop eyrie of cacti, succulents and ethereal sculpture by Jean-Phillipe Richard. Pop into Parfumerie Fragonard for a free tour and a sniff of scents made from Provençal lavender too.

• 12km east of Nice on the Moyenne Corniche
• 30 minutes by car
• Buses 82 or 602 from Rue Bavastro take about 30 minutes to Èze

This most ‘perched’ of photogenic hilltop villages near Nice sits on a rocky outcrop with mind-blowing panoramas over Nice countryside to the glittering Med. Topped by its mighty 17th-century castle, the village is crammed with glassmakers, perfumeries and shops selling local nougat, candied-fruit Provençal calisson biscuits and lavender pouches – pick up a selection to take home as souvenirs of your unforgettable trip. Gourdon can get overcrowded on summer weekends, so our top tip is to visit early in the day and combine it with an afternoon discovering the Gorges du Loup – you’ll drive through it on your way back to Nice.

• 40km west of Nice on the A8 and D2085 
• 55 minutes by car
• You can get to Gourdon on public transport but journey time is 2 hours 

A spine-tingling 480 metres above the sea, the big hitter in La Turbie is the monumental Trophy of Augustus – a colonnaded 2,000-year-old standing on the ancient boundary between the Roman Empire and Gaul. Beyond the history lesson – and the staggering Mediterranean panoramas – this cute little town is far removed from the razzle-dazzle of the Riviera coastal resorts. For a taste of authentic life in Nice countryside, browse tempting window displays in the patisseries and cheese shops, and stop off for salade niçoise (lettuce, tomatoes, tuna and egg) and pissaladière (the Provençal take on pizza) at prices that won’t break the bank – unlike some of the bistros down on the coast. 

• 15.5km east of Nice on the A8
• 20 minutes by car
• Bus 116 takes 50 minutes to La Turbie

“The whole future of art is to be found in the South of France,” declared Vincent Van Gogh in 1888. And so it transpired, because Saint-Paul-de-Vence, in addition to spectacular panoramas over Nice countryside from its medieval ramparts, was inextricably linked with great 20th-century artists, including Marc Chagall and Pablo Picasso – they both lived locally and have work on display at the wonderful Fondation Maeght just outside the village. Another fabulous stop for art lovers is the Chapelle du Rosaire, a gleaming white chapel with exquisite stained-glass windows by Henri Matisse, another local resident. 

• 20km west of Nice on the A8 and D2
• 40 minutes by car
• It’s not an easy journey from Nice on public transport

If you’d prefer to base yourself in Nice countryside rather than the city centre, book the stylish hotel with a pool at Valbonne.

Grasse is a charming and elegant town sitting among the Alpes-Maritimes foothills. It’s known for its distinctive ornate Belle Époque architecture, which you can see at the ochre-and-white Palais des Congrès and Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Provence – the perfect place for a whistle-stop tour of the life of a Provençal aristocrat circa the 1870s. Above all, however, Grasse is the undisputed perfume capital of the world – so while you’re visiting, we recommend you grab the opportunity to create your own unique scent in the workshops at Galimard, a prestigious perfumery opened back in 1747.

• 43km west of Nice on the A8 and D6185
• 55 minutes by car
• The train from Nice-Ville station to Grasse takes just over an hour

Nice is the only city in France that still has AOC vineyards within its boundaries – and historic ones at that, with their origins dating from Roman times. So for a genuinely local wine-tasting experience, we suggest you visit the tiny Bellet wine-producing region, once the favourite appellation of King Louis XIV and his Versailles courtiers. The reds, whites and rosés have a distinct minerality and freshness about them; they are produced from grapes used for centuries and perfectly adapted to the region’s pebble-and-sand soil and sunny, dry microclimate. You can visit several of the 15 or so Bellet vineyards near Nice. Château de Bellet is our top choice as their tastings take place in an ornate chapel adorned with frescoes.

• 12km north of Nice on the Route de Canta Galet
• 30 minutes by car
• No regular public transport 

As anyone with local knowledge will tell you, it’s easy to fall in love with the verdant landscapes of the Gorges du Loup. This great gash of a limestone ravine cuts deep through cliffs in hilly Nice countryside, interspersed with waterfalls and river beaches suitable for safe swimming – it’s the local escape of choice for weekend hiking and challenging cycling routes. Our favourite bike ride takes in the multiple cascades at Saut du Loup and the single fall at Courmes, where you can also abseil down the sheer 40-metre cliff face (if you dare!). 

• 32km west of Nice on the A8 and D2085 
• 50 minutes by car
• There is no handy public transport to the gorge 

If you’re looking for a hike that suits all the family, we love the scenic coastline walk from gorgeous Villefranche-sur-Mer, circumnavigating its beautiful bay to Port Lympia in Nice. At 6.5km, it’s not too far for most kids, and although there’s a steepish climb at Mont Boron, there are several rocky coves and hidden beaches for a cooling splash in the serene waves. Make your way past luxury villas and pastel-coloured mansions and you’ll come to a couple of waterfront bistros by the marina – perfect for a chilled Bellet rosé as the sun sets over Nice.

• Villefranche is 8km east of Nice on the M6098
• 15 minutes by car
• The train from Nice-Ville station to Villefranche-sur-Mer takes just 5 minutes

Remember that Nice is popular so choose your hotel in advance – and if we’ve inspired you to explore Nice countryside, perhaps you’d like to read about Provence’s best markets or more picture-perfect French villages?