Discover Lyon’s Traboules: Hidden Passageways with a Story To Tell

Imagine strolling through the cobblestone streets of Lyon, admiring its Renaissance buildings, when a discreetly marked doorway catches your eye. Feeling curious, you step through – and suddenly, you're in a hidden world of spiraling stairwells, quiet courtyards and ancient corridors. Welcome to Lyon’s traboules, the city’s secret passageways. This unique network of hidden paths are not only handy short cuts; they've borne witness to centuries of historic moments, from the silk trade to World War II. Each door is like stepping into a time machine that reveals its own special story. So, grab a map, lace up your walking shoes and prepare to set off on a journey of discovery.

The word traboule comes from the Latin transambulare, meaning “to pass through”. Originally designed in the 4th century as a way of accessing fresh water from the river, these passageways became integral during Lyon’s silk trade boom in the Renaissance. Canuts (silk workers) used the walkways to protect their delicate fabrics from bad weather as they transported them around the city.  

During the Industrial Revolution in the 1800s, the silk workers fought for better wages and working conditions in what became known as the Canut revolts. Using the hidden walkways, the canuts were able to sneak into the city centre and take over the town. The labyrinthine alleys were also used by the French Resistance during World War II, to evade capture by Nazi forces. The double doors of the passageways allowed them to deliver weapons or critical messages, without raising suspicion.

Today, Lyon is home to around 400 pastel-coloured traboules, though only about 40 are open to the public. From spiral staircases and vaulted ceilings to elaborate Renaissance arches, each traboule has its own distinct architecture and character.

The city's traboules are primarily found in two districts: Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon) and just across the river on the Croix-Rousse hill. These areas are part of Lyon's UNESCO World Heritage Site and are steeped in history, making them perfect for exploration. 

City maps, available at Lyon's tourist office, often highlight the locations of public traboules. Some travel apps and online guides also provide detailed directions and histories of the passageways. You can even ask locals about their favourite passageway: they might share a secret gem that you won't find online.

Note that most traboules are privately owned and only open between 7am and 7pm. As they are mostly in residential areas, explore respectfully and quietly, without leaving any litter. 

One of the best places to start your traboule adventure is Vieux Lyon, the city’s oldest district. The passageways here date back to the Renaissance and were designed to connect courtyards and provide easy access to the Saône River for merchants. 

• A favourite is the Traboule de la Tour Rose, at 22 Rue du Bœuf. Its picturesque rose-tinted watchtower – complete with spiraling staircase and Renaissance-style windows – can be viewed from the courtyard below and feels like stepping into a fairytale.
  
  
• Another must-visit is the traboule connecting 27 Rue Saint-Jean to 6 Rue des Trois Maries, known for its intricate carvings and open-air sections.
  
  
• Stretching between 54 Rue Saint-Jean and 27 Rue du Bœuf, La Longue Traboule is the longest traboule in Old Lyon; the walkway crosses five courtyards and tunnels under four buildings. It's marked by a green door.

Getting there: Take Metro Line D to Vieux Lyon-Cathédrale Saint-Jean. The traboules are within a 10-minute walk.

The traboules in Croix-Rousse, Lyon’s former silk-weaving district, are longer and more utilitarian than those in Vieux Lyon. They reflect the neighbourhood’s working-class roots and the industrious spirit of the silk trade.

• If there's one traboule you can't miss, it's the Cour des Voraces, located at 9 Place Colbert. This 19th-century passage is famous for its six-storey staircase (one of the oldest in the city) and was a sanctuary for silk workers during the Canut revolts.
  
  
• Traboule de Maison Brunet connects 10 Rue Rivet to 5 Place Rouville, and 12 Rue Rivet to 6 Place Rouville. It leads to Maison Brunet, a remarkable structure featuring 365 windows, 52 apartments, four entrances and seven floors, for the days, weeks and seasons in a year, plus days in a week.
  
  
• The traboule connecting 14 Rue Imbert-Colomès to 10 Quai Lassagne offers beautiful views of the Saône River.
  
  
• Another highlight is the passageway at 9 Rue Diderot, where you’ll find a serene courtyard, perfect for quiet reflection.

Getting there: Croix-Rousse is accessible via Metro Line C. It's best to wear comfortable shoes – this neighborhood is famously hilly!

Insider tip: Public passageways are indicated with blue plaques featuring a lion’s head. 

While it's perfectly possible to explore Lyon's traboules independently, tours organised with local guides not only save you time but often have access to private passageways. An expert guide will bring the history of the traboules to life and point out things you could easily miss, like small plaques commemorating resistance efforts. These serve as poignant reminders of the courage and sacrifice of Lyon’s people.

Before or after your tour, consider visiting the Centre d'Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation, near the Presqu’île district, with exhibits on Lyon’s wartime activities and the role traboules played in resisting occupation. To dive deeper into Lyon's silk history, the Maison des Canuts offers demonstrations of weaving methods, such as the Jacquard loom, and showcases the lives of the canuts.

Lyon’s traboules are more than just passageways: they’re a testament to the ingenuity, resilience and artistic spirit of everyday heroes who shaped the city's identity. Whether you're a history buff or an amateur sleuth, they're a fascinating way to explore. If you're looking to stay close to the action, Mercure Lyon Centre Beaux Arts Hotel and Hotel Mercure Lyon Centre Plaza République are within walking distance of both the Vieux Lyon and Croix-Rousse districts. And for more on the city's history, discover our insider guide to Lyon's Roman ruins.