Old Nice: Authentic Stories from a Historic Neighbourhood

No stay in Nice is complete without a visit to its beautiful historic quarter. Old Nice (Vieux Nice) is a captivating neighbourhood at the heart of this glamorous Mediterranean city. As you step into its narrow, winding streets, you're immediately transported to a world where history, culture and everyday life meet in one vibrant mix.

Elegant Baroque buildings in shades of ochre yellows, muted oranges and pale pinks dominate here, a legacy of Italian influence during the 17th and 18th centuries. These historic buildings, with their ornate columns and weathered façades, tell stories of the city’s importance as a trading port. Tiny cobblestone streets, so narrow that you could almost stretch your arms out and touch either side, are lined with charming boutiques, artisan shops, traditional cafés and hidden squares that suddenly open up like unexpected treasures.

Old Nice buzzes with an infectious energy that's hard to find anywhere else. Local markets overflow with fresh produce, aromatic herbs and regional delicacies. Cafés spill out onto the streets, with locals and visitors alike chatting and laughing as they enjoy coffee, pastis or a leisurely lunch. In the evening, fun-seekers come to hang out in relaxed bars, where people-watching is a favourite pastime. Amid the soft lighting illuminating the historic façades, you feel, just for a while, like you’re on a truly magical journey of local discovery.

First, let's get you oriented. The good news is, Old Nice is very compact – barely a kilometre across and about the same north to south – so it’s very hard to get lost in this neighbourhood. Indeed, you may even want to forget the map and just wander, exploring all the nooks and crannies. You never know what hidden gems you might find amid these key sights!

Every town needs a church for people to gather at, and in Old Nice it’s the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate, a stunning Baroque masterpiece on tranquil Place Rossetti. From important weddings to funerals and religious holidays, this is where things happen. 

This 17th-century cathedral is dedicated to Saint Reparata, a young Christian martyr from the 3rd century. Saint Reparata herself, the patron saint of the city, adorns the façade, amid embedded columns crowned by intricate twirls. Step inside, and you'll be greeted by a breathtaking interior. Elaborate marble columns, gilded altars and a series of beautiful side chapels adorned with impressive artwork vie for attention. Don’t forget to look up (towards the heavens, just as the Baroque architects intended) at the canvas of religious frescoes on the ceiling.

Practical info

• Address: 3 Pl. Rossetti, 06300 Nice
• Opening hours: 9am-noon and 2pm-6pm, Tuesday to Friday; 9am-noon and 2pm-7:30pm Saturday; 9am-noon and 3pm-6pm Sunday

A five-minute stroll south from the cathedral sits the neighbourhood’s famed market, Marché Cours Saleya. In the morning, fresh produce vendors display an incredible array of local fruits and vegetables – plump tomatoes, fragrant herbs, sun-ripened peaches and crisp vegetables. The flower market, which takes over the west of the square, fills the air with fragrance, creating a riot of colours that’s a real treat for your eyes.

As the day progresses, local vendors showcase regional specialties – think fresh olives, lavender products, homemade tapenades and local honey. You’ll be drawn in by samples of this delicious produce, so remember to take a shopping bag or two with you as you’ll find it impossible to resist buying a taste of this gorgeous city to take home with you! On Mondays, the usual sellers take a break and antique dealers and vintage collectors set up stalls, offering a treasure trove of unique finds. Make sure you don't have far to walk with your precious purchases by booking this friendly four-star hotel right next to the market. 

Practical info

• Address: 26B Cr Saleya, 06300 Nice
• Produce and flower markets open Tuesday to Sunday, antiques market open Monday. Opening times vary, but are approximately from 6am to 6pm

The Colline du Château (Castle Hill) offers one of the most breathtaking panoramic views of the French Riviera. Though its name suggests a castle, what you'll actually find is an incredible hilltop park with a rich history and stunning vistas.

Located at the eastern end of Old Nice, this hill is more than just a viewpoint – it's a historical landmark that tells the story of Nice's past. While the original medieval castle was razed to the ground by Louis XIV in 1706, the site still bears traces of its complex history as a Greek then Roman hilltop settlement, Christian town and Savoyard fortress. Today, it's a public park that invites you to explore its lush landscapes and remarkable viewpoints.

As you climb the stairs (or take the free public elevator), you'll be rewarded with a panoramic view that stretches from the sparkling Baie des Anges to the terracotta rooftops of Old Nice and the surrounding mountains. The park itself is a peaceful oasis, featuring walking paths, carefully manicured gardens and a pretty waterfall installed in the late 19th century to commemorate the city’s new water system. You’ll find historical remnants scattered throughout the park – traces of the old castle walls, plus archaeological sites dating back to the Bronze Age. If you have time, climb the Bellanda Tower, a reconstructed 15th-century defensive tower that was once home to Romantic composer Hector Berlioz.

Practical info

• Address: 06300 Nice
• Opening hours: 8am-6pm daily

Nice was once a region of the Savoy-led kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia, which later became part of modern-day Italy. So it’s no surprise that some of the most popular foods in these parts have a distinct Italian influence. 

Top of your list of things to try should be socca, a savoury chickpea pancake with Genovese roots. It’s made in large, round pans, and sizzled until golden-brown, with crispy edges and a very slightly soft centre. A popular snack at any time of day, socca can be found at market stalls and in restaurants across Old Nice – Niçoise institution Chez Thérésa has a cart in Cours Saleya Market as well as a restaurant close by with a takeaway window. Socca is not typically Provençal, so sample it here as you probably won’t find it anywhere else in the region!

For a sweet treat, it’s got to be gelato. Among the numerous shops and stalls selling this Italian ice cream, Fennochio on Place Rossetti (where the main cathedral is) is a real stand-out. Flavours vary according to the season, so apart from the classics, you’ll find anything from basil to avocado and even Provençal lavender. If you’re dairy-free, there’s a selection of sorbets, too.

Practical info

• Chez Thérésa, 28 Rue Droite, 06300 Nice
• Opening hours: 9:30am-3pm, Tuesday to Sunday

Traditional Niçoise cuisine blends Mediterranean influences with Provençal cooking styles – think aromatic olive oil, sun-kissed tomatoes, fragrant herbs and incredibly fresh seafood. Typical dishes include salade niçoise, a colourful salad featuring tuna, hard-boiled eggs, olives and fresh veggies dressed with olive oil, and pissaladière, an onion tart topped with anchovies and olives. Heartier dishes like daube niçoise, a slow-cooked beef stew, and ratatouille, with a rainbow of Mediterranean veggies, showcase the cuisine's rustic roots. 

Old Nice has plenty of cosy little restaurants offering top-notch regional fare, and La Merenda, just around the corner from Cours Saleya Market, is one of the best. Helmed by a former two-Michelin-star chef and his wife, this is where you’ll find a celebration of seasonal produce in a cosy yet refined ambience. Another favourite among those in the know is Côté Marais, on a side street west of the main cathedral. With its concise menu and summer pavement seating, this hidden gem offers a delicious way to discover the local cuisine. 

Practical info

• La Merenda: 4 Rue Raoul Bosio, 06300 Nice
• Opening hours: 12-1:45 pm and 7pm-9pm, Tuesdays to Fridays
• Book online and bring cash as they don't take credit cards 

Looking for some unique keepsakes of your travels, or gifts for friends and family back home? Old Nice is packed with artisan boutiques offering beautiful crafts and other handmade items. Browse ceramics with Mediterranean designs, authentic Niçoise pottery and Provençal tablecloths and fabrics. If you have an eye for fashion, pick up some local designer jewellery or classic striped espadrilles. And for a souvenir that will transport you right back to the Côte d'Azur long after your tan has faded, choose lavender soap, a bottle of Provençal wine or exquisitely crafted olive wood kitchen utensils. You’ll find lots of shops lining Rue Bonaparte and Rue de la Préfecture, or the area surrounding Place Masséna.

Whether you've only got a couple of hours to visit Old Nice, or you've put aside a few days to really explore this delightful area, the fascinating history, delicious cuisine and friendly vibe will draw you in. And when it's time to unwind after a long day of discovery, choose the best spot to enjoy the sunset in Nice.