5 Covered Passages in Paris: Hidden Gems of the City

Beginning life as private shopping streets where the wealthy residents of the Right Bank could socialise and parade their wealth – as well as escape rainy weather and the filth of 19th-century city streets – the covered passages of Paris are awash with gilding, tiled marble floors, soaring glass ceilings and wrought-iron lattice work to this day. Once the province of the bourgeoisie, they are still the haunt of Parisian residents in the know but remain overlooked by most visitors to the City of Light. If you’d like to know more about these intriguing hidden gems, read on for our guide to five sublime examples.

So named as it once contained two long-vanished panoramic paintings depicting French landscapes, the Passage des Panoramas is the oldest (and one of the plainest, architecturally speaking) of the Paris covered passages, opening around 1800. Today it draws the crowds for its wonderful selection of whimsical stores, including antiquarian bookshops, a philatelist and a taxidermist, plus some of the best pizzas in Paris at Victoria Station, where you can dine in velvet-upholstered train carriages. The arcade’s Théâtre des Variétés opened in 1807 and is still going strong with a schedule of comedies and musicals, while the Musée Grevin across Boulevard Montmartre is home to waxworks of French celebrities – go to admire its fabulously OTT décor.

• Address: 11 Boulevard Montmartre, 75002 Paris
• Open: Daily 6am–12am
• Transport: Métro lines 8 and 9 to Grands Boulevards

All vaulted glass roofs, swirling mosaic floors and ornate Neoclassical shop fronts, exquisite Galerie Vivienne was built in 1823 and is Parisian glamour personified. Among the chic boutiques, artisan jewellers and tempting patisseries are two almost legendary stores: the antiquarian bookshop Librairie Jousseaume and upmarket Legrand Filles et Fils, the choice of local gourmets for fine wines and an equally fine selection of cheeses, olive oils and coffees – perfect as souvenirs of your Paris trip. The arcade’s excellent Bistrot Vivienne is a top spot for classic French dishes such as onion soup, steak tartare and tarte tatin.

• Address: 4 Rue des Petits-Champs, 75002 Paris
• Open: Daily 8:30am–8:30pm
• Transport: Métro line 3 to Bourse

Black-and-white marble tiles, rococo ceiling paintings and an austere Neoclassical styling are the hallmarks of this early 19th-century gallery. Its mahogany-clad stores attract affluent Parisians to snap up artworks from exclusive galleries or the latest trends in interior design and leatherwear. An essential stop is the flagship store of world-famous shoe designer Christian Louboutin (he of the red-soled boots) – even if it’s only to admire the creative window displays. If you need a pick-me-up after seeing his prices, we suggest a glass of Bordeaux at the surprisingly affordable Café de l’Epoque.

• Address: 19 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 75001 Paris
• Open: Mon-Sat 7am–10pm
• Transport: Métro line 4 to Les Halles

Light years away from the glossy sophistication of Galerie Vivienne, Passage Choiseul is more shabby than chic, but that’s part of its charm. Dating from 1827, the arcade and its towering glass roof were renovated in the early 2010s. While there are some venerable institutions here – including Ultramod, the oldest hatshop in Paris, and Lavrut, a haven for artists opened in 1922 – an influx of small catering businesses have seen the arcade morph into one of the most popular lunchtime hubs in the 2nd arrondissement, with eateries offering anything from noodles to shawarma.

• Address: 40 Rue des Petits-Champs, 75002 Paris
• Open: Mon-Sat 8am-8pm
• Transport: Métro line 3 to Quatre Septembre or line 7 to Opéra

Somewhat off the tourist route in hipster Montorgueil, the Passage du Grand-Cerf is best known for its 12-metre-high glass roof – a huge engineering feat for the early 19th century – adorned with wrought-ironwork and animal motifs, including deer and elephant heads, crabs and dragonflies. Vintage is the theme here, as it’s packed with offbeat shops selling anything from antique door knobs to retro jewellery and pre-loved bags – all reasonably priced and often supporting fair trade too. Wind up your visit by refuelling in one of the many international restaurants that surround the arcade on Rue Saint-Denis.

• Address: 145 Rue St Denis, 75002 Paris
• Open: Mon-Sat 8:30am-10:30pm
• Transport: Métro line 3 to Réaumur-Sébastopol or line 4 to Etienne Marcel

We’ve told you about our five favourite Paris covered passages, but there are many more to explore. Keen for even more cultural discovery? Read our indispensable guide to the city's landmark bridges. Over to you – happy hunting!