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History in Layers: Lyon's Roman Ruins & Medieval Echoes

Peel back the layers of Lyon’s history to reveal the city’s evolution, from an ancient Roman capital into a flourishing medieval powerhouse.

Lyon, France's third-largest city, might be best known for its decadent gastronomy but it's also a World Heritage Site with a fascinating history. 

The capital of Gaul during the Roman Empire, Lyon boasts some of the country's most spectacular Roman ruins, from monumental amphitheatres to sprawling ancient forums. Built upon this legacy is a medieval cityscape of winding alleys, Gothic cathedrals and the intriguing traboules – hidden passageways offering a window into life in the Middle Ages. 

Exploring Lyon's ancient sights is more than just a history lesson; it’s a journey to the roots of Western civilisation, where every corner has a story waiting to be uncovered. 

A brief history of Lyon

The Roman colony of Lugdunum was founded on Fourvière Hill (from the Latin "forum vetus", meaning "ancient forum") in 43 BCE. Thanks to its strategic location, at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers, it developed into an important administrative, economic and religious centre. Not only did it have the most extensive aqueduct system in the Holy Roman Empire, but it was also the only city outside Rome to have the right to mint gold and silver coins. 

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Lyon’s importance shifted. By the Middle Ages, it had become a bustling trade and banking hub, sitting at the crossroads of northern and southern Europe. Over time, Lyon became a major centre for the silk industry and played a significant role in France’s industrial revolution. This rich historical heritage has shaped the city into the modern metropolis that exists today. 

Lyon's Roman ruins in context

Before exploring Lyon's Roman ruins, we recommend visiting the Musée Lugdunum, which brings Lyon’s past to life through its impressive collection of artefacts. Highlights include mosaics, statues and the rare Claudius Tablet, which contains a speech by Emperor Claudius advocating for the inclusion of Gauls in the Roman Senate. The museum’s modern design, integrated into the hillside, creates a striking contrast with the ancient artefacts it houses.

Musée Lugdunum

  • Address: Rue Cléberg, Lyon 5th arrondissement
  • Transport: Take the funicular to Fourvière.

Ruins of the Fourvière Roman Theatres

If there's one site you shouldn't miss, it's the Fourvière Roman Theatres. Dating back to 15 BCE, these ancient landmarks were once the epicentre of entertainment in Lugdunum, hosting dramatic performances, poetry recitals and civic ceremonies. The larger theatre, capable of seating 10,000 spectators, is still used for modern performances during the annual Nuits de Fourvière arts festival. 

Fourvière Roman Theatres

  • Address: Rue de l'Antiquaille, Lyon 5th arrondissement
  • Transport: Take the funicular from Vieux Lyon to Fourvière.

Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls 

Tucked away in the Croix-Rousse district, the Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls offers a quieter but equally profound historical experience. Built in AD 19, this site was more than just a place for gladiatorial games: it was where representatives from Gaul’s provinces gathered to pledge allegiance to Rome.

The amphitheatre also holds special significance as a site of early Christian martyrdom, including that of Saint Blandina, whose story remains a symbol of faith and resilience.

Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls

  • Address: Rue Lucien Sportisse, Lyon 1st arrondissement
  • Transport: Take Metro C to Croix-Rousse. 

Traboules of Vieux Lyon

In contrast to Lyon’s Roman ruins, the traboules in Vieux Lyon (Lyon's old town) transport you to the medieval period. These secret covered passageways were originally built to help silk merchants transport their precious goods seamlessly around the city, protected from the weather. Today, about 40 traboules are open to the public, revealing hidden courtyards, spiral staircases and beautifully carved stonework.

Good to know: During World War II, the traboules were used by the French Resistance to move about the city without being captured by Nazi forces.

Vieux Lyon

  • Transport: Take Metro D to Vieux Lyon – Cathédrale Saint-Jean.

Saint Jean Cathedral

The Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste in Vieux Lyon is a masterpiece of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. Constructed over three centuries, it served as the spiritual and cultural centre of medieval Lyon. Inside, you’ll find beautiful stained glass windows and an impressive astronomical clock, which still chimes daily – a testament to the advanced science and craftsmanship of the medieval era.

Saint Jean Cathedral

  • Address: Place Saint-Jean, Lyon 5th arrondissement
  • Transport: Take Metro D to Vieux Lyon – Cathédrale Saint-Jean.

Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière

Perched atop Fourvière Hill, the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière offers one of the best views of Lyon. Though built in the 19th century, its location links it to Lyon’s Roman past and its medieval heritage. The basilica’s terrace provides breathtaking views of the city, allowing you to trace its historical layers from the ancient theatres to the rooftops of Vieux Lyon.

Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière

  • Address: Fourvière Hill, Lyon 5th arrondissement
  • Take the funicular from Vieux Lyon – Cathédrale Saint-Jean.

Planning your trip to Lyon

Whether you’re drawn by the allure of ancient Rome or the mysteries of the Middle Ages, exploring Lyon’s old town and Roman ruins will enrich your travel experience. If you're looking to stay centrally, Mercure Lyon Centre Beaux Arts Hotel and Hotel Mercure Lyon Centre Plaza République are both within walking distance of the major sights. Fascinated by hidden history? Go back to where it all started and discover the secrets of underground Rome.  

Plan your adventure in Lyon

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