Sustainable, Seasonal Dining at Gaée in Mercure La Rochelle Vieux-Port

Learn how Gaée, a Mercure restaurant on La Rochelle waterfront, puts seasonality and sustainability at the heart of its ever-changing menus.

Poised over the seafront, the signature restaurant at seafront Mercure La Rochelle Vieux-Port reflects its enchanting coastal setting. It's named Gaée for a mythical goddess of the sea; after all, Mercure hotels are named in honour of the Roman god of travel.

Completely revamped by Parisian interior designers in 2023, Gaée's décor is also inspired by the timeless ebb and flow of the Atlantic Ocean, using a colour palette of softest pinks and blues highlighted with accents of gold and crimson. An ethereal mural of a wave splashes over one wall and glittering gold tentacles spread across other walls, evoking the tide-driven drifting of seaweed. In keeping with Mercure’s policy of sourcing local creativity, both were created by a talented artist based in the Charente-Maritime.

Cooking is in Chef Hervé Holderbaum’s very lifeblood. His parents both worked in the restaurant trade and, as he says, “I fell into the cooking pot as a child.”

This globe-trotting chef was brought up between Réunion Island and Bordeaux, and arrived permanently in mainland France at the age of 25. Since then, he has worked in fine dining at Le Meurice in Paris and at the helm of the highly acclaimed restaurant at Le Chabichou in Courchevel, before moving to Gaée in 2024.

Holderbaum’s style of cooking has undoubtedly been influenced by his nomadic upbringing. His is healthy, balanced bistronomic cuisine with an exotic twist – a pinch of saffron here, a touch of chilli there – on a menu that changes with the seasons and always features surprising and innovative additions to his classic international dishes.

Chef Holderbaum believes in sustainability and runs his restaurant along eco-friendly guidelines. “We always prefer to work hand in hand with quality local suppliers to ensure low food miles,” he explains, “and we’re aiming to drastically reduce the amount of food waste we produce.”

The first thing that grabs your attention when you walk into Gaée is the spectacular panorama through plate-glass windows – it is of Quai Louis Prunier, sailing boats bobbing in Bassin des Chalutiers marina and La Rochelle’s landmark medieval towers. Our restaurant itself is full of light and relaxed in ambiance, with seating arranged in long banquettes so you can immerse yourself in the stunning waterfront views as you eat. On warm sunny days, you may like to dine on our waterfront terrace or the sheltered courtyard surrounding the pool.

It’s the combination of Gaée’s uniquely diaphanous design and the stunning views with the sheer quality of the food that sets this restaurant in La Rochelle apart from the crowds. Chef Holderbaum oversees a tempting menu of bistronomic classics, which changes every three months with the seasons.

The dishes may change, but of course the calibre of cuisine does not. Whatever time of year you visit our La Rochelle restaurant, you’re guaranteed at least two vegetarian options – perhaps cauliflower steak or butternut squash risotto – on the menu. Gluten-free, non-dairy and vegan choices always feature too.

Every recipe is carefully balanced for maximum nutritional goodness, while fair-trade, organic and zero-miles local ingredients – including the seafood for which the Charente-Maritime is famous and ingredients from the terroir of Nouvelle-Aquitaine – are used wherever possible. Holderbaum has forged close working relationships with a number of local producers, and is also reducing the amount of red meat used in his kitchen.

Mercure La Rochelle Vieux-Port is very proud to hold a Green Key certificate for its sustainable practices. Chef Holderbaum and his brigade are an integral part of this success story, with their final aim being to reduce wastage to zero; currently any surplus food is composted by an outside company and re-used in regional agriculture.

Gaée is open daily from breakfast until late, and Mercure’s eco-friendly principles run throughout the service. Our buffet-style breakfast showcases locally made ingredients such as butter, seasonal jams and honey. In fact, the restaurant has its own beehive, which produces some of its honey needs, but also uses a La Rochelle supplier with hives near the beach.

Another highlight of Gaée’s culinary week is the leisurely Sunday brunch, an all-you-can eat extravaganza. To save wastage here, skilled chefs at show cooking stations make hot dishes to order. Of course, this being the Charente-Maritime, seafood looms large on the lunch and dinner menu, with lobster and cod pulled straight from the Atlantic Ocean often showcased to reflect our setting as a coastal destination. 

With the same design theme running throughout, Gaée is more than simply a restaurant, it’s a meeting place with a coffeeshop, secluded corners for confidential business chats and workspace for digital nomads. Dedicated mixologists work their magic on cocktails in the adjoining bar – the drinks list changes seasonally too – using local ingredients like lightly salted water to remind you that we’re right by the ocean. Also serving French wines, artisan beers and spirits, it’s a popular and lively spot for afterwork drinks or family get-togethers before Sunday brunch.

Gaée also benefits from a beautiful sun terrace around the swimming pool, sheltered from the occasional coastal wind. Between May and October the action moves outside, with monthly DJ sets and regular events including food-and-wine tasting evenings and themed soirées, to which La Rochelle residents also flock. 

Along with other Accor hotels in La Rochelle, Mercure La Rochelle Vieux-Port is close to many historic and family attractions; the aquarium is almost next door and it’s only a couple of minutes’ walk to the maritime museum. Take pictures of the famous Vieux-Port – from which our Mercure hotel takes its name and itself only 300 metres away – from the terraces of the three legendary towers that guard the harbour. In keeping with our sustainable philosophy, you can easily get to the beaches or explore this charming town on foot or by bike, reducing the need for car journeys.

Of course, our La Rochelle restaurant, with its creative seasonal menus, is a significant draw. Chef Holderbaum and his team are known for creating inspired and unusual twists to classic bistronomic dishes from across the world. And this is why you’ll want to keep coming back – our ever-changing menus are always totally original, and you’ll always find a new and exciting dish to try!