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Euljiro Guide: Seoul’s Retro Streets, Hidden Bars, Old-School Cafes

Affectionately dubbed ‘Hipjiro’ by locals, this district blends creativity, tradition, and old-world charm in the heart of Seoul.

Euljiro is one of central Seoul’s most distinctive neighbourhoods, known for its printing alleys, old workshops, and hidden bars. Although it’s located close to the neon-lit districts of Myeongdong and Dongdaemun, Euljiro maintains its traditional roots, having largely escaped the wave of modern redevelopment sweeping across the city and preserving its old-world charm in the process.

In this guide, we’ll take you through the best things to do in Euljiro - from tucked-away cafés and retro speakeasies to street food spots and atmospheric alleyways worth exploring. Whether you’re in Seoul for a layover or venturing further into South Korea, here’s how to experience one of the city’s lesser-known gems.

At a glance: why Euljiro is worth exploring

  • What the neighbourhood is known for: Family-run businesses, industrial charm, and hidden bars
  • What to see: Narrow printing alleys and traditional metal workshops still operating
  • What to eat: Late-night Korean dishes, Pyeongyang-style noodles, and grilled intestines
  • Fun fact: Known locally as “Hipjiro” for its after‑hours food and bar culture

The best things to do in Euljiro

These are the best things to do in Euljiro if you want to experience its food, streets, and after‑hours culture like a local.

1. Walk the retro printing alleys 

Start around Euljiro 3-ga and head into the smaller side streets, where printing shops and metal workshops are still active during the day. You’ll see paper stacks on pavements, delivery carts squeezing through tight gaps, and machines running behind open doors.

Some print shops are open-fronted, and if you’re polite and curious, owners will often let you step inside to watch presses running or see metal type being set. There’s no formal visitor experience, but quiet observation and brief conversations are usually welcomed.

2. Track down a hidden bar after dark

For first‑timers

Start around Euljiro Nogari Alley, where open‑air beer spots like Manseon Hof and Eulji OB Bear spill onto the street. These places are loud, casual, and built around beer and simple snacks like dried pollack. It’s busy, but it’s also one of the easiest ways to ease into Euljiro’s nightlife and understand how locals drink after work.

For cocktail drinkers

One of Euljiro’s beloved establishments, Bar Cham is listed among Asia’s 50 Best Bars, and it’s not hard to understand why. Hidden above street level, this cocktail bar is known for using traditional Korean spirits alongside classic techniques.

On the menu, expect a strong focus on native ingredients, with spirits sourced from across South Korea. Think a subtly spiced negroni made with deodeok (a native root vegetable) and Korean bitters. If you’re unsure where to start, the bartenders are happy to guide you based on your taste.

To find Bar Cham, look up for a narrow stairwell beside older shops, often with only a small light on, and follow anyone heading quietly upstairs.

For groups who want a social atmosphere

Bars like Southside Parlor offer a more open, welcoming feel, perfect if you’re travelling with friends. Founded by Texan expats, this BBQ and cocktail spot features leather couches, dartboards, and even retro arcade games.

The drinks menu changes regularly, but you’ll find classics like margaritas, espresso martinis, and highballs, alongside beers and house cocktails. Pair your beverage with comfort food including tacos, wings, and their signature Southside Burger.

Like many bars in Euljiro, Southside Parlor is tucked away. Look for an unmarked door on the fourth floor.

For travellers seeking hidden gems

Euljiro is full of hidden bars tucked up staircases or behind plain doors, including small wine bars and listening bars that rarely advertise outside. If you see people heading upstairs where there’s no obvious sign, it’s often worth following. Just be prepared to wait or come back later if the space is full.

3. Eat at an old-school Korean restaurant

Food is central to Euljiro, home to many must‑try Korean restaurants, some of which have been serving the same dishes for decades.

Woo Lae Oak

Recognised in the Michelin Guide, long-running restaurant Woo Lae Oak is best known for its Pyeongyang‑style cold noodles and slow, no-frills approach to Korean dining. The atmosphere is very traditional, with many local regulars who have been coming here for years.

What to order: Pyeongyang naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles) or the boiled beef platter to share.

Eulji Myeonok

Eulji Myeonok is a specialist restaurant that does very little beyond cold noodles and broth‑based dishes, and that’s exactly the point. The menu is short, the flavours are subtle, and most diners order the same dish. When a restaurant is this specialised, you know it’s good.

What to order: Naengmyeon (a traditional Korean cold noodle dish) with the house broth.

Baekyeom Makchang

A popular late‑night spot around Euljiro 3‑ga, Baekyeom Makchang specialises in grilled intestines and off‑cut meats. It’s lively, smoky, and best visited in the evening, when tables fill quickly with locals eating and drinking after work.

What to order: Grilled makchang, a popular BBQ dish made from beef or pork.

4. Spend time in a traditional café

Away from the nightlife, Euljiro’s café scene offers a quieter view of the neighbourhood. While these aren’t the typical trendy cafes you’ll find around Seoul, they’re the perfect spot to unwind with a book or settle in for an afternoon of people-watching.

Coffee Hanyakbang

One of Euljiro’s best‑known traditional cafés, Coffee Hanyakbang is hidden in a narrow alley near Euljiro 3‑ga and set inside a former herbal medicine shop. The interior retains much of its original elements, including wooden counters and old cabinets.

What to order: Hand‑drip filter coffee, paired with a pastry from the sister bakery across the alley.

Eulji Dabang

A classic Korean coffee house that has been around since the 1980s, Eulji Dabang keeps the look and feel of an older Seoul café. The space has an aura of nostalgia, making it a good stop if you want to see how cafés functioned here decades ago.

What to order: Ssanghwacha, a traditional herbal tea often served with an egg yolk.

5. Drink beer in Nogari Alley like a local 

If you’re not keen on hunting down a hidden bar, you can still enjoy a drink without venturing indoors. Nogari Alley is one of the most recognisable night‑time rituals in Euljiro and a popular spot for locals to gather after work. Long metal tables are set up on the street, with nearby venues serving cold beer and plates of dried pollack (a type of white fish) to share.

There’s no dress code and no reservations required - simply turn up, grab a plastic stool, and enjoy the sights and sounds of Euljiro’s nightlife.

How to get to Euljiro

Euljiro is located in central Seoul, making it quick and easy to reach from many of the city’s most popular neighbourhoods by subway.

From Myeongdong

  • Take Line 4 from Myeongdong Station to Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station, then transfer to Line 2 and ride to Euljiro 3‑ga or Euljiro 4‑ga Station
  • Travel time: around 10 to 15 minutes

From Hongdae

  • Take Line 2 from Hongik University Station directly to Euljiro 3‑ga Station
  • Travel time: around 30 to 35 minutes

From Gangnam

  • Take Line 2 from Gangnam Station or Samseong Station and stay on the train until Euljiro 3‑ga or Euljiro 4‑ga Station
  • Travel time: around 25 to 35 minutes, depending on your starting point

From Itaewon

  • Take Line 6 from Itaewon Station to Samgakji Station, transfer to Line 4 towards Dongdaemun, then change to Line 2 at Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station for Euljiro
  • Travel time: around 25 to 35 minutes

From Incheon International Airport

  • Take the AREX (Airport Railroad) to Seoul Station, then transfer to Line 1 to City Hall Station and change to Line 2 for Euljiro 1‑ga, 3‑ga, or 4‑ga Station
  • Alternatively, take the AREX all‑stop service to Hongik University Station and transfer directly to Line 2
  • Travel time: around 60 to 75 minutes, depending on connections

From Gimpo Airport

  • Take Line 5 from Gimpo Airport Station to Euljiro 4‑ga Station, which sits on the eastern edge of the neighbourhood and close to Cheonggyecheon
  • Travel time: around 45 to 50 minutes

Subway lines serving Euljiro 

Euljiro is served by several central subway stations, all clustered along the same stretch of road and within easy walking distance of one another.

Euljiro 1‑ga Station: for Myeongdong access and the western edge of Euljiro

  • Line 2 (Green Line): circle line connecting major districts, including Hongdae, City Hall, and Gangnam

Euljiro 3‑ga Station: for Nogari Alley, printing streets, and nightlife

  • Line 2 (Green Line)
  • Line 3 (Orange Line): north–south line linking Jongno, Gyeongbokgung, Apgujeong, and Sinsa

Euljiro 4‑ga Station: for Cheonggyecheon and the eastern side of Euljiro

  • Line 2 (Green Line)
  • Line 5 (Purple Line): east–west line connecting Gimpo Airport, Yeouido, and eastern Seoul

Where to stay for easy access to Euljiro 

Choosing a hotel near Euljiro allows you to enjoy its nightlife while remaining well connected to surrounding neighbourhoods in Seoul.

Mercure Ambassador Seoul Hongdae is located near Hongik University Station on subway Line 2, offering direct subway access to Euljiro 3‑ga without transfers. The journey takes around 30 to 35 minutes, making it a convenient base if you want to combine Euljiro evenings with Hongdae’s daytime energy.

Book your stay in Seoul direct on Mercure.com or via the ALL Accor app to enjoy the best available rates and exclusive perks, and sign up to the free ALL loyalty programme to access member benefits and save up to 10% on every stay.

Frequently asked questions

Is Euljiro worth visiting during the day?

Yes. While the neighbourhood is known for its vibrant nightlife, the streets of Euljiro during the day tell a different story. Printing shops, metal stores, lighting suppliers, and delivery carts line the narrow streets, showcasing a functional and historic part of Seoul.

Is Euljiro safe to visit at night?

Yes. Euljiro stays busy well into the evening, especially around restaurants and bars. It may look rough in places, but it’s generally safe to visit at night.

How long should you spend in Euljiro?

One evening is enough for a first visit to Euljiro, but many travellers return for another night to explore more hidden bars, restaurants, and enjoy the lively night atmosphere.

How late does public transport run in Euljiro?

Subway services typically run until around midnight, with last trains varying slightly by line and direction. After that, taxis are easy to find, and Euljiro’s central location keeps fares reasonable.

Is it easy to get around Euljiro if you don't speak Korean?

Generally, yes. Most menus in Euljiro have pictures or simple English descriptions, and staff in bars, cafés, and restaurants are used to visitors, especially in the evenings.

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