A Local's Self-Guided Walking Tour of the Old Goa Churches

Situated on the banks of the Mandovi River in North Goa, visiting the Old Goa churches is like stepping back in time.

Old Goa, or Velha Goa, was under the control of the Portuguese from 1510 to 1961 and served as the capital of Portuguese India during the 16th and 17th centuries – and it shows.

Following the Portuguese conquest of Goa in 1510, Christianity was rapidly introduced to the region, leading to the construction of the beautiful Baroque and Manueline-style churches of Old Goa, many of which are still in use today.

Because of its well-preserved 16th and 17th-century churches and cathedrals, the city of Old Goa was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986. Luckily, the most famous and historic churches of what has been dubbed the 'Rome of the Orient' are easy to visit in one day. 

This self-guided walking tour of the famed Old Goa churches will start at the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary and lead you through Old Goa until you reach the Church of St Cajetan. The journey is roughly one mile, or 1.6km, and can be completed in as little as a few hours.

As you dive into the unique Old Goa church history, the first stop on your self-guided tour is the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary. Dating all the way back to the 1540s, the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary is the oldest standing church in Old Goa.

Perched on Monte Santo (Holy Hill), it is rumoured that this is the very spot where Portuguese commander Afonso de Albuquerque observed his soldiers reign victorious over Goa in 1510. According to legend, he vowed to build a church dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary to give thanks. 

The church's design is simple. Built in the Portuguese-Manueline style, it is easily recognisable by its imposing three-story facade and two-story porticoes flanked by a pair of cylindrical towers. The church's main altar is dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary, while the other two feature images of St Anthony and Jesus.

Also located on Monte Santo, the Church of St Augustine was built by Augustinian friars between 1597 and 1602. While this church was once one of the largest churches in Old Goa, it was abandoned in 1835 and began to collapse piece by piece over the next 100 years.

Visit the ruins today and all that's left of this once grandiose church is one-half of one of the church's four original towers. In addition to the church's four four-story towers, the original structure contained eight chapels, four altars, and a convent. 

From the ruins of the Church of St Augustine, walk for 10 minutes until you reach the Basilica of Bom Jesus (meaning "Good" or "Infant" Jesus), the most famous of the Old Goa churches. Built between 1594 and 1605, this is a beautiful example of Baroque architecture. While most of the other churches in Old Goa are whitewashed, this one is distinct with its red laterite stone facade.  

But the real reason why this is the most-visited church in Goa is because it contains the tomb and remains of Saint Francis Xavier, a revered 16th-century Roman Catholic missionary, one of the founders of the Jesuits, and the Patron Saint of Goa. You'll find his ornate silver casket in the chapel to the right of the main gilded altar. Every 10 years, his famously well-preserved body is displayed to the public in the nearby Sé Cathedral.  

If you happen to be in Goa on December 3, you can join thousands of worshippers who flock to the Basilica of Bom Jesus each year for the annual Feast of St Francis Xavier. This is a truly unique cultural experience and is marked by a festive fair and mass. 

From the Basilica of Bom Jesus, cross the street and you'll reach your next stop, the Chapel of St Catherine of Alexandria. This is not technically one of the Old Goa churches, but it's well worth checking out for its distinct white-and-brown facade. 

This small Baroque chapel was built in 1510 to commemorate the victory of Afonso de Albuquerque over Goa on the feast day of Saint Catherine. Pope Paul III granted the chapel the status of cathedral in 1534.

No longer in use, the chapel overlooks the Mandovi River and is on the same grounds as both Sé Cathedral and the Church of St Francis of Assisi. 

After arriving in Goa in 1517, a group of eight Franciscan friars completed a Portuguese-Manueline-style church on this site in 1521. However, the church was later expanded upon before being almost entirely reconstructed in 1661. 

What you see today is an amalgamation of Tuscan, Baroque, and Corinthian styles. However, the Portuguese-Manueline doorway of the original church is still intact and is now accentuated by two grand octagonal towers. Step inside and you'll find a magnificent gilded altar, a series of detailed paintings depicting the life of St Francis of Assisi, as well as large statues of St Francis of Assisi and Jesus. 

On-site, you'll also find an interesting museum housing artefacts, paintings, sculptures, and icons. While the museum is open seven days a week, the church is closed on Sundays. 

Next up on your self-guided walking tour is Sé Cathedral (St Catherine's Cathedral), which you'll find just steps from the Church of St Francis of Assisi. This sprawling white church was built to commemorate the capture of Goa by the Portuguese in 1510, the same day as the Feast of Saint Catherine. Hence, the church's dedication. Construction began in 1562. However, as the largest church built by the Portuguese in Asia, Sé Cathedral took nearly 80 years to build.

The surviving tower (the second was destroyed in 1766) houses the "Golden Bell," which is world-famous for its rich tones. Other notable features of Sé Cathedral are the combination of Portuguese-Manueline, Tuscan, and Corinthian architecture, as well as the beautiful gilded altar and panels depicting the life of Saint Catherine. 

After a short and scenic stroll, you'll arrive at the beautiful Church of St Cajetan. What makes this place stand out from the other churches and cathedrals in the old city is that it was constructed by Italian priests and designed by Italian architects. 

Completed in 1661, it is said that the Church of St Cajetan was modelled on St Peter's Basilica in Rome, which is evident in the church's magnificent dome. It's also well worth taking some time to admire the church's intricately carved wooden altar and pulpit.  

Dress modestly: Unlike the beaches of Goa, Old Goa is conservative, so dress respectfully. For ladies, this means covering your knees and shoulders. 

Be respectful: Most of the places on this list are active places of worship, meaning you should always be respectful and speak softly, especially when worshippers are present.  

Check visiting hours: Most of the churches on this list are open to visitors seven days a week. However, some are closed on Sundays. 

Located on Divar Island (aka the "Island of love"), Mercure Goa Devaaya Resort is an easy 30-minute drive from the city of Old Goa – but you'll feel like you're worlds away. 

Surrounded by green fields and the winding Mandovi River, this boutique waterfront resort boasts 60 Indo-Portuguese-style suites and villas, each outfitted with comfy beds, flat-screen TVs, Wi-Fi, tea and coffee makers, and balconies with garden or river views. 

Explore the palm-tree-studded property and you'll find a large pool lined with loungers, an outdoor game area, a spa, a fitness centre, two on-site restaurants, a bar, and more.