Discover Authentic Curitiba: A Local Travel Guide by Mercure

Start here: geometric French-style gardens leading up to a glass greenhouse modeled on London's Crystal Palace. It's free, open until 7:30pm, and the symmetry makes it one of the most photographed corners of the city. Duck into the Botanical Museum inside for a quieter look at native species.

A wire opera house built from tubular steel over the water of a disused quarry — you don't need a ticket to admire the structure from outside. The acoustics inside are genuinely renowned, so check if there's a show on. Come at golden hour and the lake does half the work for you.

Every Sunday from 9am to 2pm, Curitiba's colonial-era square fills with one of the biggest antiques and handicrafts fairs in southern Brazil. Wander past 18th-century mansions and old churches while you browse. Free entry, and it's the best way to see the historic center actually being used.

Locals just call it "Museu do Olho" — the eye-shaped annex is the giveaway. Niemeyer's building is as much the draw as the contemporary art inside. Give yourself at least an hour; the exhibitions rotate more often than you'd expect from a regional museum.

A short covered street in the center that never really closes — restaurants, bars and shops running around the clock under a glass roof. It's not fancy, but it's useful: late arrival, early flight, random craving at 2am, this is where Curitibanos go. Good spot for a quick coxinha before bed.