Discover Authentic Curitiba: A Local Travel Guide by Mercure

Start here: geometric French-style gardens leading up to a glass greenhouse modeled on London's Crystal Palace. It's free, open until 7:30pm, and the symmetry makes it one of the most photographed corners of the city. Duck into the Botanical Museum inside for a quieter look at native species.

A wire opera house built from tubular steel over the water of a disused quarry — you don't need a ticket to admire the structure from outside. The acoustics inside are genuinely renowned, so check if there's a show on. Come at golden hour and the lake does half the work for you.

Every Sunday from 9am to 2pm, Curitiba's colonial-era square fills with one of the biggest antiques and handicrafts fairs in southern Brazil. Wander past 18th-century mansions and old churches while you browse. Free entry, and it's the best way to see the historic center actually being used.

Locals just call it "Museu do Olho" — the eye-shaped annex is the giveaway. Niemeyer's building is as much the draw as the contemporary art inside. Give yourself at least an hour; the exhibitions rotate more often than you'd expect from a regional museum.

A short covered street in the center that never really closes — restaurants, bars and shops running around the clock under a glass roof. It's not fancy, but it's useful: late arrival, early flight, random craving at 2am, this is where Curitibanos go. Good spot for a quick coxinha before bed.

A 28-hectare garden of French-style flower beds and a glass-and-steel greenhouse that glows after dark, filled with plants from around the world and the Atlantic Forest. Entry is free – come back at night for the lights.

Jardim Botânico · Garden · Perfect for a stroll

One of Curitiba's largest parks, along the Barigui River. Follow the trails past sculptures and capybaras to the wooden Ukrainian Memorial chapel, built in 1995.

Curitiba · Park · Great for nature and culture

The Free University of the Environment: a forest campus with a boardwalk to a lake-filled quarry and a spiral ramp up to treetop level. Join an eco-workshop or simply breathe.

Curitiba · Environmental centre · Ideal for a calm visit

Play, the natural way: suspension bridges, trampolines, ziplines, high ropes and a mini train, all in native forest.

Curitiba · Adventure park · Great for families

Locals call it 'The Eye', after its tower. Niemeyer's museum shows Brazilian and international artists – bring a picnic for the lawns outside.

Centro Cívico · Art museum · Made for art and architecture

A telephone tower more than 100 metres tall, with a 360-degree viewing deck and a Telephone Museum. Head up at sunset, when the city turns gold.

Mercês · Viewpoint · Perfect for city views

A car-free street its residents turned into a 450-metre open-air gallery of recycled-art installations and flowering trees. Wander slowly.

Street art · Ideal for a stroll

Brazil's first private museum devoted entirely to indigenous culture, with feathered costumes, masks and instruments.

Museum · Perfect for culture

Every Sunday morning, more than 800 stalls of crafts, vintage finds and local snacks fill Curitiba's historic heart. Go early, go hungry.

Largo da Ordem · Sunday market · Great for souvenirs

A lively tapas bar mixing Spanish market food with coastal Caiçara flavours – think oysters, clams and shrimp. Order a few plates and share.

Tapas bar · Made for seafood lovers

An icon of Curitiban cooking for over 30 years, known for its steak tartare and good-value classics.

Bar-restaurant · Perfect for local classics

Push open the gate and you'll find it: al fresco tables among plants and fairy lights.

Restaurant · Ideal for a cosy dinner

Seasonal, zero-waste cooking in a garden with native bee hives and a vegetable patch. The menu changes daily, so ask what's good today.

Restaurant · Made for farm-to-table